MIDDAY EXPLAINS: A guide to Goa's enchanting monsoon festivals

Gone are the days when Goa was a seasonal destination that drew scores of tourists during the peak months. While sun-kissed beaches and the buzzing nightlife still keep Goa a perennial favorite, the coastal paradise is loved for its lush landscapes and laidback pace by travellers seeking a more relaxed vacation.

During the monsoon, Goa's spirit comes alive in a kaleidoscope of colours, rhythmic beats, and age-old traditions. Forget the beaches for a moment, because monsoon unveils a hidden gem - a wide range of festivities that capture the essence of its culture. From boat processions on shimmering waters to culinary celebrations bursting with flavour, each festival offers a unique glimpse into the rich heritage of this coastal paradise. Locals eagerly invite us to experience their most cherished local festivals and charming traditions, offering a glimpse into the vibrant soul of Goa.

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Sao Joao Festival

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One of the most beloved monsoon festivals celebrated with infectious enthusiasm across the state is the Sao Joao Festival. Named after St. John the Baptist, and observed annually on June 24, the festival isn't just a religious observance, but a celebration of community.

"Most of the festivals in Goa have a mixture of tradition and culture. The tradition comes from the land and the culture is probably from the Portuguese occupation, in Goa. So, festivals or any other religious or ethnic event was celebrated keeping the customs; religious or festive, and the borrowed cultural flavour. Sao Joao is a Christian festival that celebrates the visitation of Jesus's Mother, Mary to her cousin Elizabeth. Elizabeth was expecting St. John, the Baptist, who is supposed to have jumped in his mother's womb when he sensed the presence of the son of God," explains artist, and founder of Big Foot Museum, Maendra J. A. Alvares.

During Sao Joao, revellers, adorned with vibrant kopels (floral wreaths), shed their inhibitions and plunge gleefully into wells, rivers, and ponds. The 66-year-old poses that the observance of Sao Joao on June 24 follows a period during which most Christian weddings occur. He shares, "Floral and seasonal fruit tributes thrown into the water bodies (wells, ponds, etc.) were performed as prayers for the fertility of the new couple. The seasonal fruits included mangoes, jackfruit, pineapple and coconuts. The jumping in the well symbolised the leaping in the womb but was also local training of the youngsters in the act of swimming and diving. Hollow coconuts were tied around the waist and acted as buoys. The flower crowns on the head were a festive celebration. In the past, youngsters moved around the village banging the hard stem of the coconut leaf (Piddo) shouting ‘Viva re Sao Joao"! They used to ask for permission to jump in the wells and were often served alcohol (feni)."

When asked about upcoming celebrations, the Margao resident tells us, "At the Big Foot in Loutolim, we invite local schools and colleges to participate in the ‘Kopel' competition. Since it is a traditional, annual event, participation is encouraged to observe the authenticity of the occasion. Visitors to the museum are served the fruit which is fished out of the water bodies and also local sweets (pinaca, doce, boiled gram with fresh coconut and sweet tea). The visitors are also invited to take part in the brass band show."

Sangodd

Goa's monsoon festivities unfold not just on land, but also on water. The Sangodd Festival is a time-honoured tradition celebrated by the fishing community, observed on June 29, coinciding with the feast days of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.

"A traditional boat celebration, the Sanggod festival is cherished by both Hindus and Catholics. Each year on June 29th, the Catholic community honours the feast days of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Saint Peter is especially revered by fishermen, as this festival marks the start of the 'rampon' fishing season, involving sea blessings and boat preparations for the upcoming endeavours," shares archaeologist Sawani Shetye-Malik.

She tells us that Goans, historically reliant on river navigation, celebrate river life with enthusiasm. The Pernem resident elaborates, "During this beloved festival, canoes are creatively linked with wooden planks to form a temporary stage on the water. This floating platform becomes the heart of the festivities, adorned with beautifully decorated boats featuring coconut palms, flowers, and vibrant balloons. Boats designed to resemble churches add to the picturesque scene. Fishermen, dressed in colourful outfits, entertain with folk dances, musical performances, skits, and traditional songs, all amplified by sound systems that carry the joyous sounds across the water."

The 29-year-old emphasises intrinsic diversity, "The Hindu community also celebrates the Sangodd festival at the Kumbharjuva canal during the immersion procession of Shri Ganesh after the Chavath festival. Villagers create scenes from mythology and dress up as characters from the Puranas, adding to the festival's rich cultural tapestry while they sing songs and chants of God."

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Chikhal Kalo

Also known as the Mud Festival, Chikhal Kalo is a traditional celebration held in June. Originating from the village of Marcel in Ponda, this unique festival centres around the Devki Krishna Temple, dedicated to Lord Krishna and his mother Devki.

"Though the exact origins of this festival are shrouded in historical haze, the villagers celebrate it with boundless enthusiasm every year. The festivities are filled with joyous revelry, where people of all ages join in dabbling gleefully in the mud and participating in traditional games. The open grounds opposite the Sri Devki Krishna Temple come alive, transforming into a vibrant mela that welcomes all who attend," says Sanjeev Sardesai.

The subject matter expert (heritage) suggests that Chikhal Kalo is one among the many unique festivities incorporated into the Goan cultural fabric by Goan ancestry to inculcate an emotional bond with mother nature. The 64-year-old recalls, "I vividly remember one year, the rain had just stopped, leaving the ground perfect for the fun to begin. We laughed and rolled in the mud, surrounded by friends and neighbours, - our spirits high. The air was filled with the sounds of traditional music and the ethereal scent of fresh earth wafting all around. It's a memory to treasure, - a wonderful reminder of our Goan spirit of harmony. It would be a joy to share such special moments with the visitors to Goa."

Touxeachem Feast

At the core of the Touxeachem Feast lies a unique and charming custom: the offering of cucumbers to St. Anne as a gesture of reverence. This intriguing tradition isn't merely symbolic; it's deeply rooted in the seasonality of Goa. During the monsoon, cucumber harvests reach their peak, making them a fitting symbol of gratitude. Cucumbers also mark the first harvest of the season in Goa.

According to the clergy, individuals bring two cucumbers, placing one at the feet of Our Lady while touching the other to the sacred statue. The cucumbers presented during the festivities are then shared among the local community, visiting priests, and nearby villages. Some prefer to savour the cucumbers fresh, while others incorporate them into revitalizing salads.

"In our Goan tradition and culture, we have always celebrated the bounties of nature offered to us by mother nature in Goa. One of them is the cucumber that is touxem or pipri that is big and small tauxem. Goa abounds in this fruit cum vegetable during the monsoons that Goddess Sateri blesses us with. As Thanksgiving, the people of Talaulim celebrated this bounty by dedicating a festival to it which after the conversions was dedicated to St Anne grandmother of Jesus Christ. Hence, the village's name is Sant Anne or Santan," shares history researcher and heritage activist, Prajal Sakhardande.

Head of department and associate professor in the department of history at Dhempe College of Arts and Science, Sakhardande elaborates on some interesting customs, "Childless couples offer cucumber to St. Anne, and once their wish for a child is granted by St. Anne, they bring the newborn child for the feast. Unmarried women also offer cucumber to be blessed in finding a groom. It's a festival of nature. In Goa, we dedicate festivals to various bounties of nature such as Tisreo fest in Nerul, Konsachem fest for the first sieve of rice, and so on."