05 February,2025 08:22 AM IST | Mumbai | Shriram Iyengar
Quail curry and mutton bone rasam. PICS COURTESY/RESHMA MANE
Among the many pet peeves this writer can be accused of, one is the assumption that South Indians are largely vegetarian. "I get irked when people confuse Tamil cuisine with Kerala or Malabari cuisine," shares chef Reshma Mane. The founder of Every Aroma and Vannu Tinnuka, Mane is hoping to change this assumption with her pop-up titled A Bellyful of Chennai that brings to the table the meaty flavours of Dindigul and Ambur biryani with mutton rasam, quail and other dishes.
Mutton urundai (mutton balls)and mutton biryani
"I had decided early on last year that I would explore more flavours in this country," she shares. For 2025, she decided to head to Chennai on the east coast of Tamil Nadu. However, Mane did not want to focus on the vegetarian variations. "Many people in the North associate South Indian food with the basic idli and sambar variations. To some extent, they might be familiar with Kerala-based cuisine. But there is such a vast difference. Moreover, the city is a microcosm of Tamil food, quite like Mumbai is," she explains. Hence, Mane opted to keep this exploration focused on the non-vegetarian delights.
Vanjaram fry at Marina Beach
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Describing her own experience on the famed Marina Beach, Mane says, "In the midst of Pongal holidays, I was lucky to be taken to the seafood stalls at the end of the Beach. Prepared by local fishermen, the viral meen [snakehead murrel] is so delicate, flaky and delicious."
Ambur biryani
Among the dishes on the pop-up menu are Chettinad fish fry, mutton urundai (mutton balls) inspired from her past trips to Madurai; chicken sukka, parotta and of course, the Dindigul and Ambur biryani. "Unlike other parts of the country, in Tamil Nadu, they use the seeraga samba rice - not basmati or kollam. It retains the flavours and the moist factor of the meat," she elaborates. Over the last few years, Mane has sought out culinary experiences from the region. From travelling to Madurai and sampling its mess food in 2022, to trying the Dindigul biryani, the region's flavours and cultures have intrigued her.
"I think Chettinad cuisine is often termed universally as spicy. But it is not so. It is the nuance of using their spices, and reasons that make it interesting. The coastal regions use spice as a way to balance the heat." This has also put in motion her plans for the next trip - Hyderabad. The pop-up also hopes to bring to the table more than just the dishes. Mane promises a touch of the traditional banana leaf plates as well as âChennai' mess-style service. "That is the surprise," she promises.
ON February 9; 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm
AT The Little House, Yari Road, Versova, Andheri West.
CALL 9819875010 (for reservations; limited seats)
COST Rs 2,000
Tracing its roots to the Kongu region, the chicken pallipalayam is a simple dish that can be quickly put together with spices, shallots, coconuts and chicken.
INGREDIENTS
>> 250 gms chicken (boneless)
>> 1/4 cup ginger (crushed)
>> 1/4 cup garlic (crushed)
>> 1/4 cup curry leaves
>> 1/4 cup fresh coconut slices (small)
>> 2 tsp mustard seeds
>> 2 tsp cumin seeds
>> 1/2 cup Madras onions
>> 1 tsp turmeric powder
>> 1/4 cup dry red chilli (roughly chopped)
>> Fresh coriander leaves
>> Salt to taste
>> Oil (for sauté)
METHOD
Wash the chicken and keep aside for a bit. In a pan, heat oil. Add mustard seeds, cumin seeds, half curry leaves, crushed ginger, crushed garlic and sauté. Add some Madras onions, and fry till they are soft and golden. Mix in turmeric powder, red chilli pieces and fresh coriander. To this, add the chicken pieces and fry well. Sprinkle a little water if needed. Add salt to taste, and cover the mix for 4 to 5 minutes. Once the chicken is done, add in fresh coconut slices. Mix well and let the water dry. Make sure the chicken is coated on all sides. Add remaining curry leaves and serve hot.
A simple Chettinad stir fry dish, the prawns thokku is a quick fix side dish for any good dinner, and is often kept handy as a ready mix for every occasion.
INGREDIENTS
>> 250 gms prawns (small/medium)
>> 1/4 cup crushed ginger
>> 1/4 cup crushed garlic
>> 1/4 cup curry leaves
>> 1/4 cup tomatoes (chopped)
>> 2 tsp mustard seeds
>> 2 tsp cumin seeds
>> 1 inch cinnamon stick
>> 3-4 cloves
>> 1 cup Madras onions (chopped)
>> 1 tsp turmeric powder
>> 2 tsp red chilli powder
>> 1 tsp fennel powder
>> 1 tsp garam masala powder
>> Fresh coriander leaves
>> Salt (to taste)
>> Oil
METHOD
Wash the prawns well and keep aside. In a pan, add some oil and sauté mustard seeds, cumin seeds, cinnamon, cloves, some curry leaves, crushed ginger and garlic. To this, add Madras onions and tomatoes. Fry until they are soft and brown. Mix in turmeric powder, red chilli powder, fennel powder and fresh coriander. Throw in the pieces of prawn and fry well. Add water if necessary. Sprinkle salt as per taste. Let the curry simmer under a lit for 4 to 5 minutes before adding garam masala powder and mix well. Ensure that the curry has a semi-dry consistency. When it is ready, garnish with the remaining curry leaves, and serve.
Recipes courtesy: Reshma Mane
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