Diving into Vivienne Westwood's take on tartan, and fashion tips for how you can style it next time

Anushka Sharma layers her tartan for a structured look. Pic Courtesy/Anushka Sharma on Instagram; (right) Uorfi Javed pairs her tartan dress with modern heels. Pic Courtesy/Ur7fi on Instagram

When British fashion house Vivienne Westwood came calling, Mumbai's fashion fraternity eagerly braved the unseasonal drizzle, oppressive humidity and serpentine traffic jams to show up. And, for this date with one of the most enduring, revered and influential names in the design world, they came dressed in their Westwood best - the most telling sign of which was the omnipresence of tartan. And that isn't surprising considering that tartan was a hallmark of the British designer, who was known for her rebellious take on fashion and ability to "turn the fashion world on its head by merging chaos with high fashion," notes fashion designer Sanjana Bubber.

Westwood's fascination with tartan was an outcome of her anti-establishment rhetoric, especially because the fabric was a visual symbol of rebellion - tartan had been banned by the British government in 1746 and only saw widespread acceptance in the 19th Century, adds fashion designer Harshvardhan Rai. "What made Westwood's take on tartan even more subversive was her maximalist approach, which stood in stark contrast to the more restrained aesthetic of the time. She also fused tartan with sharp English tailoring, to create pieces that were, at once, immaculately crafted but unmistakably her own," he suggests.

Alaya F pairs a tartan with pearls to create contrast. Pic Courtesy/AlayaF n Instagram; (right) Pashmina Roshan sports a tartan. Pic Courtesy/Pashmina Roshan on Instagram

While Uorfi Javed, Pashmina Roshan and Alaya F all channelled Westwood's tartan on the red carpet, you too can make this fabric your own, and add a fresh spin to your daily looks.

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Gender benders

A structured tartan ankle-length skirt is the most fashion-forward way to wear this fabric, says Bubber. "True to Westwood's legacy, a tartan skirt can flout gender norms and can be dressed up or down, depending on the vibe you're going for - while a white crop top or a crisp white shirt can create a pretty ensemble, a black leather jacket with hardware and buckles worn with boots can lean in to Westwood's punk roots," she explains. Tartan can also be layered for an impactful look. Wear a tartan vest or shirt over neutral basics to incorporate this fabric into everyday outfits without letting it overwhelm you. The colours you pair your tartan separates with can make all the difference to the outcome, says Rai. "While white and light neutrals can soften the look, black adds structure and contrast, while denim is an unexpected but a delightful pairing," he shares.

Vivienne Westwood. Pic Courtesy/Wikimedia Commons

A matter of proportion

Whether you wear your tartan piece or whether the piece wears you, depends on proportion, says Rai. "If you want to wear the fabric from head-to-toe, opt for a mini dress or a mini jacket and skirt set to avoid looking frumpy. Another unlikely combination that works even when it feels like it shouldn't is tartan and florals, which harkens back to the English eccentric look. To keep the outfit from looking too dated or like a costume, wear modern and slightly edgy accessories such as ankle boots or a studded purse," he clarifies. The most accessible way to wear tartan is in the form of accessories - a tartan scarf, tie, bag or shoes can instantly liven up the rest of your outfit.

Harshvardhan Rai and Sanjana Bubber

Lean into Westwood

Bubber suggests wearing tartan the way Westwood intended it - in a fitted corset or a bustier, which you can pair with modern elements such as high-waisted trousers or ripped jeans. You could also experiment with a tartan dress in an updated avatar, such as an asymmetrical hemline or an off-shoulder cut. Pair it with statement heels or combat boots. For a truly Westwood throwback, wear your tartan with pearls to create a high-low contrast. Tartan suits are a great way to stand out, whether for men or women. In the case of streetwear, tartan hoodies and sweatshirts pair well with slim jeans, chunky sneakers and high boots.