Mumbai: Elephanta showcases handlooms with GI tag

Models showcase curated textiles featuring GI or Geographical Indication handlooms imagined on modern silhouettes during Artisan Speak at Elephanta Caves, on Monday. Pic/Satej Shinde

This is a different platform; it's not the 22 yards," laughed Sachin Tendulkar, looking spiffy in an embroidered kurta, Nehru jacket and knotted stole. The cricket legend was one of the key guests on Monday evening at Artisan Speak, a fashion showcase held at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Elephanta Caves, backed by the Ministry of Textiles.

The audience included Union Minister for Textiles Smriti Zubin Irani, and designers Rakesh Thakore, Payal Khandwala, Narendra Kumar, Meera Muzaffar Ali and Gaurang. There was reason why Tendulkar spoke no cricket and only textiles. His latest investment is a clothing line in partnership with Arvind Fashion Brands, called True Blue.

The event was significant because it witnessed the signing of a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) between the Office of Development Commissioner (Handlooms), Ministry of Textiles and textile brands Welspun, Raymond, Titan, Arvind True Blue, and Reliance Retail, where Weavers' Service Centres (WSCs) will play the role of facilitator, allowing textile firms to directly source their requirements from handloom clusters.

The heritage complex also called Gharapuri, built between the fifth and 8th centuries, is a collection of five Hindu and two Buddhist caves. It came alive when models wearing India's most defining handlooms walked a ramp built against the stone-cut backdrop. The 168 handloom products in India that enjoy the GI tag (Geographical Indication), include the Baluchari and Jamdani weaves from West Bengal, the Paithani from Maharashtra, Chanderi and Maheshwari from Madhya Pradesh, Patola from Gujarat, Kani from Kashmir, the Bomkai of Orissa, brocade of Varanasi and Pochampally from Andhra Pradesh.

IMG-Reliance curated the showcase of garments featuring some of these weaves cut into modern silhouettes. Rahul Mishra and Meera Muzaffar Ali explored Chikankari, while Payal Khandwala turned to brocade, and Shantilal Bhangade showcased the stunning Paithani that comes from Aurangabad. Incidentally, Irani chose a narangi Paithani to wear to the event, keeping herself busy sharing notes with Tendulkar, who sat beside her.

The irony was not lost on some members of the fashion fraternity who have been demanding sops and tax relief from the government, especially when supporting weaver clusters that are looking at possible extinction.

The Indian fashion industry is the country's second largest employer after agriculture, offering jobs to over 35 million people, either directly or otherwise. But, it is yet to be recognised as an industry. Let alone brand-backed fashion shows, even institutes like the National Institute of Fashion Technology, must shell out tax in the range of thousands to hold their graduate fashion shows. If the intent of an event such as this is to establish an integrated fashion system that collectively moves towards creating consumer pull and demand for indigenous handmade products, perhaps the government must introspect on its own commitment to grant fashion industry status.

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