Backwaters in the city

02 July,2010 07:14 AM IST |   |  Janaki Viswanathan

A no-frills eatery, Taste of Kerala satiates Mallu food craving, especially for the non-vegetarian


A no-frills eatery, Taste of Kerala satiates Mallu food craving, especially for the non-vegetarian

"Get to Fort and ask anyone for Taste of Kerala," says one of the staffers over the phone. Nine pm at Flora Fountain and we do just that and turns out, he was right. We get ready directions for the unassuming little eatery in one of Fort's many lanes.

Here's the typical version of the 80s restaurants with "permit room" and separate air-conditioned section. Upstairs, the cooler zone reminds us a little of a long-distance railway compartment, with its long single-seaters, the plastic still clinging to the legs, and granite topped tables.
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Tomato Fry with rice.


The menu card has flashy coconut palm trees, and, just in case the name didn't spell it hard enough, the menu sports a technicolour image of a Kathakali dancer.

Taste of Kerala is packed with natives of the state, tucking comfortably into their thick boiled rice, and meen curry and chatting with the staff in Malayalam. My broken hybrid Tamil-Malayalam leads the manager to believe that I'm from the backwaters too, and for the rest of the meal, we're spoken to in nothing but Malayalam.


Taste of Kerala is for the hardcore non-vegetarian homesick Keralite, the vegetarian has options too, but they're almost like an obligation. My vegetarian dinner date picks a Malabar Parotha (spelt as only we do in the south) and a Tomato Fry, while I go for the Parotha and Mutton Curry.

There are the standard "meals" and "lunches" in the menu, reminding us of the south super food chain Saravan Bhavan. The menu also features an entire selection of Chinese (is there a menu that doesn't!), and Chettinad Chicken as well.

The Parotha, layers and layers of flour arrives along with the steaming Tomato Fry. The Fry is a vulgar red but is tasty though spiced up a little too much with red chilli powder and chopped green chillies. Another Parotha and my dinner date is full, but I call for a Fish Curry Rice.
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The boiled bland rice is the perfect contrast with the powerfully spiced up fish, though it's one whole fish tail and everything intact floating in gravy. It's a little ungainly to eat, though tasty.

Taste of Kerala, looks and feels nothing like God's own country, and while it's not so great to look at, it is nice to eat from the southern state in the midst of such a busy office area, whether or not you speak the language.

At: Prospect Chambers Annex, Pitha Street, Fort.
Call: 22044545
Taste of Kerala didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.

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Kerala Mallu food Tomato Fry palm trees Malayalam