Turkiye seeks to regulate Germany's beloved doner kebab; Berlin resists bid

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Turkiye's proposal to control the renowned doner kebab has caused debate in Germany, where the iconic street dish earns €2.3 billion in sales each year. The European Commission is evaluating Turkiye's bid to grant the doner kebab "traditional speciality guaranteed" status, which would enforce stringent preparation requirements.

Doner kebab, a mainstay of German street food culture, owes its contemporary shape to Turkish immigrants in Berlin who modified the meal in the 1970s, serving it in pita bread rather than on a plate, reported the Associated Press.

According to the report, Turkiye's proposal would establish tight criteria for meat preparation, including the need that beef be sourced from calves aged at least 16 months and marinated with particular additives such as animal fat and yoghurt. Concerns have been expressed about the thickness of the sliced beef as well as the removal of ingredients such as vegetables and Turkiye.

Germany's Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture, along with others in the industry, opposes these regulations. "The kebab is part of Germany, and its diversity of preparation reflects the diversity of our country," the ministry said, arguing that local kebab shops should not be subject to Ankara's rules.

According to the AP report, Cem Özdemir, Germany's food and agriculture minister, added: "The kebab belongs to Germany. Everyone should decide for themselves how it is prepared."

The European Commission must decide the legality of objections by September 24, with a potential six-month negotiation process between Germany and Turkiye to follow, the AP report stated

Despite the criticism, other shop owners, such as Deniz Buchholz of Kebap With Attitude, remain unconcerned. Buchholz, who admires Berlin's innovative attitude, believes the local kebab scene will evolve even if limits are implemented.

Doner kebab has become more than just food in Germany, affecting political debates. The soaring cost of kebabs has prompted calls from Germany's Left party for price controls, which Chancellor Olaf Scholz has resisted. Furthermore, German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier utilised doner kebab diplomacy on a visit to Turkiye earlier this year, emphasising the dish's cultural value.

The German Hotel and Restaurant Association also expressed alarm over Turkiye's new laws, claiming that enforcing them would harm local firms. The group advocated for the preservation of kebab diversity, citing the various ways utilised in Germany's kebab businesses.

The final decision now rests with the European Commission.