23 March,2025 10:19 AM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak Siddiqi
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Sindhi cuisine is a story of resilience and tradition, carried across generations through bold flavours and cherished dishes. On Cheti Chand, restaurateur Ashesh Sajnani shares five iconic recipes (beyond Sindhi curry and dal pakwan) that celebrate his community's culinary heritage. "Cheti Chand is more than just a festival for us Sindhis - it is a reminder of resilience, faith, and the rich traditions we carried with us after Partition.
Ashesh Sajnani
My father arrived in Mumbai with little more than hope, yet my parents built a life here, ensuring that my elder brother and I never felt disconnected from our roots. Today, with Via Bombay, I feel privileged to keep our culinary heritage alive, especially during Cheti Chand, when we honour Jhulelal with prayers, and of course, food that tells our story."
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Gach is a Sindhi festival staple - crisp, golden jaggery fudge with sesame seeds and nuts. The name gach comes from dividing the dough into four parts before frying. These sweet, golden discs, often garnished with powdered sugar, nuts, and rose petals. "My mother would break it into pieces and serve with rabri, creating a rich, satisfying dish," says Sajnani.
Settled by the banks of the Indus River, freshwater fish has long been a Sindhi staple, with pali macchi - fish simmered in a spicy tomato-based gravy - reflecting the community's love for bold flavours. Another favourite is seyal macchi - fish cooked in its own juices. For me, it's a taste of Sajnani's maternal home - a dish from his mom's side, lovingly made by his maasis (aunts). Served with steamed rice or phulkas at festive gatherings, it symbolises warmth and hospitality. While some debate eating fish during Cheti Chand, the smoky aroma and burst of flavours make it irresistible.
A Cheti Chand feast is incomplete without bheej ji tikki - a crunchy delight made from finely chopped or grated lotus stem (bheej), mixed with spices, and shallow-fried into crisp, golden patties (tikki). This delicacy is made in batches, ensuring that every guest who walked into our home during the festival left with a full heart and a fuller stomach.
Soft pav (dabal) soaked in a tangy and spiced chickpea curry - growing up, it was the perfect after-school snack - filling and comforting. This humble beloved street food most likely emerged as a Sindhi take on the broader Indian chole-pav, reflecting our love for hearty, flavourful food and the community's culinary ingenuity. The old school way of eating chola dabal is with tamarind chutney and pickled onion.
More than a dish - it's a taste of home and eating with your loved ones. Tender meat is slow-cooked in a rich gravy of onions, tomatoes, and spices, sometimes with potatoes or yogurt for added warmth. Often enjoyed with bhuga chawal and phulkas, this cherished recipe travelled with Sindhi families post-Partition, preserving a legacy of comfort, heritage, and shared meals.
Celebrate Cheti Chand at Via Bombay from March 28 to 30 with a special Sindhi feast including like chola dabal, seyal pav, bheej ji tikki, and pali machchi, followed by hearty mains such as sai bhaji with bhuga chawal, Sindhi kadhi, and mutton kofta. Desserts and drinks include gach with rabri, Sindhi falooda, and thadal, along with a live counter serving dal pakwan and dal sandwich.
WHERE: Via Bombay, Chembur East
Timings: 12 PM to 3 PM | 7 PM to 11.30 PM
