Where’s Mumbai’s Christian heritage?

A glimpse of the Dhobi Talao neighbourhood in South Mumbai.

Set in the 1990s, the novel Khotachiwadi Chronicles: Aunty Perpetual & The Fall of House Rodrigues by Charlene Flanagan is soon to be released. Its protagonist is a well-meaning neighbourhood aunty who is also nosy. There's gossip, mystery, and redemption wrapped in the pages. It takes place in a dominantly Christian neighbourhood, giving you a glimpse of the community's heritage.

Mumbai's Christian heritage survives in small pockets but it's tough to find. With Mumbai's new look under development, it's even tougher to trace. So, we spoke to city authors from the community to tell us more about the neighbourhoods their books speak of.

Charlene Flanagan's Khotachiwadi

Sitting in Girgaon, Khotachiwadi gets its name from Waman Hari Khot who sold plots of land around the 18th century to the East Indian Christian Community. It's here that Flanagan's characters come to life. "I grew up in Cavel, but my characters are set in Khotachiwadi because the neighbourhood is historically beautiful. Over time the neighbourhood has seen all kinds of people. But my protagonist is a Catholic aunty. I have so many stories of the things my aunties say and people in our community do, it's what comes through in the book," says Flanagan.

Fashion designer James Ferreira outside his home at Khotachiwadi, Girgaum. Pics/ Getty Images

Khotachiwadi is much different from the '90s today. However, you can see the community's past in the homes that are now shrouded by skyrises. Take a walk along the route and stop by the home of designer James Ferreira, a champion of preserving the Wadi's heritage. You can make an appointment for a walk-through of his 200-year-old home. Ferreira has also opened his doors as a homestay. For an appointment, reach out via Instagram @jamesferreiralabel

Jane Borges's Cavel and Sonapur

Named after the washerman's lake that disappeared around the mid-17th century, the north-eastern part of the Dhobi Talao neighbourhood was once Cavel and features in Jane Borges' book, Bombay Balchao.

Cavel was once a Christian enclave and welcomed migrants as well. Eventually, the community moved to north Mumbai and even abroad, and Gujarati and Marwari traders moved in. Close by was Sonapur, which Borges describes as the graveyard of the residents of Cavel. "I think that's where the name Sonapur comes from too. It was the land of the asleep," she says. Her upcoming book, Mog Asundi, a Konkani phrase that means "let there be love", is set in Sonapur. Borges adds, "It's a parting phrase that's used instead of goodbye. It's common among Goans."

You can visit the Church of Our Lady of Dolours near Marine Lines station, which was built over a graveyard. An old chapel was once here and after it fell to pieces, the church was built in 1796. At the time it was called Church of Nossa Senhora de Saude and eventually transitioned to its English name.

Simona Terron's Mumbai

With her book still in the works, ex-journalist and heritage tour guide Simona Terron speaks of many pockets in the city where one can find Christian heritage. Her book, Beloved Badmash Bombay, chronicles the neighbourhoods she has grown up and lived in across the city. As a guide, Terron's trails are centred around Christian history. She says, "I began doing these tours because the Christian community is often just thought of as Catholics or Goans. But it includes East Indians, Mangaloreans, Goans, Malayalis, Tamilians and more, and even within that we have Protestants, Catholics and many others. So, I decided to tell the community's history." Terron says her walks (and her book) are an attempt to strip the stereotypes associated with the community.

An interior view of the Church of St John the Evangelist, better known as the Afghan Church

She recommends exploring Colaba and Fort through its churches. There's the recently revived Afghan Church at Colaba, a war memorial built under British rule in memory of those who died in the Anglo-Afghan war; also in Colaba the Cathedral of the Holy Name which has a beautifully painted ceiling and is also the seat and headquarters of the Archbishop of Bombay; and finally, the 300-year-old St Thomas Cathedral at Horniman Circle that gives Churchgate its name and is steeped in history.

A different experience is revealed in Vasai, which has a rich history. You can go around the locality of Giriz, which is closer to the sea. Here several bungalows still stand, and some popular ones are the Pereira House, Dabre House, Sequiera House, and Coutinho House. You can also get in touch with Terron for a guided tour via her Instagram @BelovedBadmashBombayCityGuide