As surprising as most people would consider the existence of a pure Indian 'Christian' Cuisine sans strong western influences, Kerala's Syrian Christians prove a point in a delectable spread that always has many takers
As surprising as most people would consider the existence of a pure Indian 'Christian' Cuisine sans strong western influences, Kerala's Syrian Christians prove a point in a delectable spread that always has many takers
We reviewed a festival and then reviewed a book, and all we're left wondering is how this whole diverse cuisine passed our attentions before?
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Achaayan Food Festival
The Syrian Christians have a lot to be proud of, with cultural connections to the Middle East and the ever-evolving state of Kerala, their culture has amalgamated and borrowed from both areas since time immemorial. If there ever was a high-caste in Christian India (as blasphemic as that sounds), the community is sure it would consist of them and there aren't many who would disagree.
With The Holy Week around the corner, this themed restaurant, that's always re-discovering and re-defining Kerala cuisine in the city, brings a festival that celebrates the indigenous cooking styles of this multi-faceted community.
Under the expert hands of Suja Zachariah, an authority on Syrian Christian food, the Achaayan Food Fest, kicked off at Karavalli a few days ago.
Suja, being trained under the watchful eyes of her mother-in-law dished out some delicacies that were rich and strangely familiar. Erachikootu (a special base masala) made from made from ginger, garlic, onions, whole pepper, poppy seeds, cinnamon sticks, cloves, cumin seeds and chilli, she says is the key secret for most of the dishes (including mutton, beef, chicken and naadan egg roast, though not for fish, adding a distinct flavour to the meats).
How is it different from normal Kerala cuisine you ask? Well, Syrian Christian food is basically non-vegetarian in character and they've been singularly responsible for the invention of the hoppers, Indian duck roast, and the oh-so-famous Kerala red fish curry, not to forget the best accompaniment with your appams -- the stew.
Begin your meal at this food fest with the unnakka chemeen fry (sundried shrimps crisp fried with spices), and the kozhi roast (chicken morsels tossed with onions and spices). Move on then to the kappa bonda (tapioca cutlets stuffed with idichammanthi) and the koonu kurumolagu roast (button mushrooms tossed with onions and black peppers). The kappa bonda is filled with tapioca and red chillies, so beware, and keep a glass of water and juice alongside your thaali, as only the brave can aspire to conquer this hot and spicy smorgasbord of flavours.
For the main course, choose between the tharavu roast (The Syrian Christian specialty -- duck cooked in local spices), or a karimeen pollichathu (pearl spot fish crisp fried and stewed in thick coconut curry with spices) or chakka kuru kashvandi ularthu (jackfruit seeds and tender cashews cooked dry) and pair it with Malabar paratha or a vellayappam instead. Another option is the kappa-meen vevichathu (fish cooked in a spicy curry flavoured with kodampuli teamed with boiled or steamed tapioca) or the uppumanga kaya thenga aracha curry (raw banana and pickled mangoes cooked in a spicy coconut curry) paired with some pidi (steamed rice flour dumplings) or some rice.
For dessert, do try the assorted Kerala halwa platter or try the adapaayasam, or if you're not really in for such experimentation, try an ice cream with Kerala's favourite banana halwa. The options with each course are immense and we'd ask you to indulge in anything your eyes catch. The food is all very much within the typical Indian palate and even though I found it a bit spicy, we're sure most of you will love it.
You're bound to belch a satiated burp after the hearty meal and fret not, because it's always considered a compliment to do so after a proper South Indian meal.
At: The Achaayan Fest, Karavalli, The Gateway, Residency Road
On till: February 28,
Lunch and Dinner
Call: 6660 4545
Served a-la carte for lunch and dinner for Rs 2,000
The Suriani Kitchen: Book review
If you're not in the mood to head out to a five-star hotel and feel like whipping up some Suriani (Syrian Christian Cuisine) food on your own, here's something that might be handy to hone up your culinary skills. A new cookbook that's just hit the shelves features a delicious collection of Syrian Christian recipes. While community cookbooks are available easily enough, most have either been self-published or produced by small publishers. In what is probably the first of a series, Westland, a relatively new publishing house, has released the delightful 'The Suriani Kitchen: Reflections and Recollections from the Syrian Christians of Kerala'.
However, Lathika George's book is not just a cookbook. It's an introduction to the Syrian Christian community through an exploration of their cuisine. Written partly as a memoir, the recollections that it houses about her family and journeys through Kerala, are interspersed between chapters, seasoning the narrative.
The chapters are arranged either around ingredients (rice and rice preparations or beef, mutton and pork) or categories of food (accompaniments, pickles, puddings and paayasams). The recipes are a treasure trove, with most of the famous dishes being covered. Familiar names like the simple egg roast and time-consuming string hoppers and classic neiyappam are all in here. Thankfully, all recipes are preceded by brief explanations and serving suggestions.
One of the deterrents readers face with traditional cookbooks is the unavailability of regional kitchenware and ingredients. And so, the author has offered appropriate substitutes. Most of the ingredients are easily available in local markets but she suggests replacing the heavy bell-metal urali with an iron skillet, and the round-bottom cheena-chatti with a wok.
The Suriani Kitchen, published by Westland.
Available at Rs 450 at all leading bookstores