Diet Anamika

Designer Anamika Khanna’s exacting and extravagant high fashion goes on a special diet for a global fashion retailer as she reimagines the lungi for the high street

Through talent, longevity and determination, Anamika Khanna has made a greater impact than any other designer, bringing that big-time sense of fashion that one sees less on today’s runways. As one of the first Indian designers invited to showcase at Paris Fashion Week, Khanna has, over two decades and across three distinct brands, dressed Bollywood (Sonam Kapoor Ahuja is a steadfast supporter), the haute and the high street, and everyone in between.  
 
A cross-cultural polyglot with a knack for blending traditional craft with a clean, modern design aesthetic, Khanna is now set to launch a high fashion-high street collaboration with Swedish fashion retailer, H&M.

For this second-largest clothing retailer (after Inditex, which owns Zara), Khanna’s capsule collection marks a second collaboration with an Indian designer, following Sabyasachi’s Wanderlust in 2021. “For us, India is an exciting and growing market with a respected textile industry and talented local designers. Anamika Khanna’s unique fusion of traditional Indian wear with modern sportswear, blending feminine and masculine codes, presents a great opportunity to introduce her innovative style to a broader audience,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor and head of design for H&M, about the collection that goes on sale on September 5 on the brand’s site and across select stores in India. She calls the collaboration, “fresh, eclectic and opulent”.

A paisley-embroidered bead collar necklace, priced at '8,999, is a brilliant way to elevate any basic T-shirt, plain shirts or dresses

Khanna, a Kolkata-based couturier, promises to distil her approach to aspiration, representing sophistication and alfresco languor, in this collection. The line-up of women’s and men’s clothing is priced between  R2,999 to R39,999. The womenswear range includes airy kaftans with statement sleeves, silk pyjamas, tunics, lungi skirts, oversized blazers, bolero jackets and embellished neck collars. For men, traditional styles are updated with graphic prints, alongside relaxed sportswear such as hoodies and T-shirts in painterly prints and colours. The collection also includes jewellery—cuffs, earrings and neckpieces—as well as accessories, including evening bags, ranging from R1,499 to R8,999. 

Edited excerpts from the interview. 

What were your first thoughts about the collaboration? 
It was a bit overwhelming, given the scale. Since the beginning of my career, my goal has been to take Indian fashion [that goes] beyond our borders. We have the potential, the legacy of craft, and everything needed to make a mark on the global stage. In my own way, I have strived to modernise Indian fashion and showcase it to the world. So, this collaboration feels like a natural extension of that mission—a chance to present our ethos, experiment, and bring a modern touch. I am nervous, of course, but excited too.

How does this collaboration align with your high-fashion values? 
From the outset, I was clear that the designs will originate from India, and reflect my Indian roots while adhering to sustainability principles, ethical production and employment practices. These were non-negotiables for me. I collaborated with experts to bring this vision to life, focusing on reducing waste and ensuring that every detail—from button production to material sourcing and recycling—adheres to sustainable practices. 

Which craft tradition does the collection highlight? 
I wanted to celebrate Indian craft without limiting it to one [regional] tradition. You will see elements of kantha, the Kathiyawadi stitch, and Kashmiri techniques. The physical boundaries are blurred now; communication across continents is effortless, so why confine ourselves to a single cultural narrative? Every design is a story in itself, reflecting the craftsmanship and people behind it, resulting in a collection that feels both rooted and global. 

You are credited with transforming the dhoti into a coveted fashion must-have. Does it find space in this collection?
We have continued our exploration into the dhoti’s fluidity, but with a new twist. This time, we are also spotlighting the lungi, a garment I find intriguing. The lungi can be styled in modern ways even while being worn traditionally for South Indian weddings. Reimagining traditional silhouettes and presenting them to the world has become a part of my creative journey. 

What’s in store for men?
I love designing menswear, and I see fashion as [becoming] increasingly fluid. I want to wear everything myself, without worrying about gender distinctions. This collection is designed to be versatile and inclusive. For example, a kurta that pairs well with jeans and boots can also be dressed up for a Diwali party.  

What have you discovered about yourself as a designer through this experience?
Every project feels like a reinvention. It is both humbling and insightful to realise that, despite the milestones and achievements, my journey is just beginning. Working with a global fashion and design company and observing their processes has been a significant learning experience. It’s a reminder that there’s always more to discover, not just in fashion but in life itself. I feel like I have only scratched the surface of what I need to learn. 

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