Explore Mumbai's history through these six wartime establishments

As the 80th anniversary of D-Day, the largest seaborne invasion the world has ever witnessed, approaches on June 6, mid-day embarks on a journey through Mumbai’s wartime heritage

Mumbai, one of the three presidency cities during the British era, played a significant role during both World Wars. Apart from being a prominent port city in South Asia, it was also a major economic and naval hub in the country, even in the 1930s and 40s. “Adolf Hitler once eyed Bombay, as he believed Indians were ‘second-class Aryans’ with relatively superior genes,” says Dr Anita Rane-Kothare, historian and professor at St Xavier’s College, and in-charge of the Bombay Local History Society.

The city is dotted with remnants of wars lying in plain sight that may be skipped by untrained eyes. But for history buffs, these “generic-looking places” are quite a stunner. We take you on a tour of the city’s places and monuments that were once pivotal establishments during a time when Mumbai found itself in the midst of a war.

Sewri Cemetery

Established in 1864 by Arthur Crawford, the first municipal commissioner of ‘Bombay’, this cemetery once held the remains of over 2,000 soldiers from both World Wars. While most graves were exhumed and relocated to Kirkee War Cemetery in Pune, one soldier from the Women’s Auxiliary Corps (India) still rests here.

Gateway of India

A bird’s eye view of the Gateway of India and the Apollo Bandar. FILE PIC/ATUL KAMBLE

Now a quintessential tourist spot, the Gateway of India was once a significant landmark during the Second World War. It served as a departure point for both British and Indian troops heading to battlefronts across the world. Soldiers who were fighting in the Western theatres like North Africa, Europe left for the frontlines from here.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (CSMT): Then known as Victoria Terminus, CSMT was a vital railway hub for transporting troops, war supplies, and equipment from the western coast to eastern India. The latter bore a biting brunt of the Second World war, especially the northeast. The railway station’s strategic importance was heightened due to its role in the logistics network supporting the British war effort in India and Southeast Asia. Mumbai was also a major recruitment centre for the British Indian Army. Many soldiers from here and surrounding regions were sent to fight in northeast India and Southeast Asia from CSMT.

Madh Island

Lifeguards keep a watch at Madh Island. The place was once under the threat of both sea and air raids. FILE PIC/SHADAB KHAN

As the Second World War raged, the Japanese captured Singapore on February 15, 1942, followed by Rangoon (Yangon) on March 7. The threat of an invasion of India was real now, with Japan’s bombers flying over India’s east coast and its army setting foot on Indian soil. On the west coast, Mumbai faced the risk of invasion by both sea and air. The city saw air raid warnings, blackouts, and the construction of bunkers due to the threat of air raids. As chance would have it, Mumbai was not bombed. Dr Rane-Kothare tells one such place where the British dug shelters was the Madh Island. Nearly three decades later, during the Indo-Pak war, this area again faced the threat of aerial attacks from Pakistan, and similar air raid drills were conducted in Madh in 1971.

Asiatic Society

The area was a citadel of the British during the Second World War as it was an administrative centre

This was one of the most heavily guarded areas of Mumbai then as a government mint was located here. The Indian Government Mint is still located here. Famous for its colonial architecture, Fort was a hub of activity during the wars, housing several British administrative offices, explains Dr Rane-Kothare. During the Second World War, the logistics, intelligence, communications, and operations of the British Indian Army were handled from Fort area in Mumbai, apart from other presidency cities like Madras (Chennai), and Calcutta (Kolkata). Dr Rane-Kothare told us there are still barracks in the Fort area from the war-era, lying in utter neglect.

Victoria Docks

A British Era painting of the Victoria Docks

The docks are now a calm spot in Mazgaon. But one of the most significant wartime events in Mumbai occurred here. The “Bombay Dock Explosion” on April 14, 1944 blew up the entire dock. Sources say the blast was so loud that it was heard till the suburbs of Santa Cruz. The British freight SS Fort Stikine, carrying a mixed cargo including gold, ammunition, and cotton bales, caught fire and exploded at the Victoria Dock. The explosion caused massive damage, killed around 800 people, and left over 2,000 people injured. The blast was so powerful that it shattered windows up to 12 km away, and the fire raged for two days.

Royal Bombay Yacht Club, Byculla Club, and Taj Hotel

Taj Mahal Palace was a hub for the British during the wars. FILE PIC/SHADAB KHAN

During World War II, the Royal Bombay Yacht Club was a recreational hub for British officers. The Byculla Club, once a prestigious social spot, had already served in a different capacity as a military hospital during The Great War. By the Second World War, ther Byculla Club was restored to its original glory. Today, the state transport depot occupies the site of the latter club. The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, too, was requisitioned by the British authorities. It was used to accommodate officers and dignitaries. During The Great War, it was turned into a 600-bed hospital for wounded soldiers.

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