After 24 years, an iconic café-restaurant undergoes a makeover, with an inspired menu, dressed up in a refreshing colour palette
Khandeshi baigan bharta with puri
The beauty of five-star hotels, even if you don’t frequent them, lies in the memories of special occasions the venue etches on the mind. When we visit Hilton Mumbai International Airport Hotel, flashes from a notorious cocktail party make a picturesque visual.
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After 24 years, restaurant café The Brasserie has gone under the knife — for its menu and decor. The journey from the lobby to the restaurant is down a winding staircase amplified with a jhoomar. Below, a modern seating lightens in concept and colour palette, aping the green openness of the pool area outside. Banana-leaf-shaped lamp shades, soft green seating covers and an earthy vibe welcomes natural light during lunch time.
Malvani fish curry
At the new space with a friend, we ordered from the menu that newly-boarded Chef Altamsh Patel had created. “Until now, the hotel followed an old-school approach of offering 200 to 250 items on a menu. I have trimmed the menu, and ensured each dish has a story,” reveals Patel, who has 14 years of experience and has been awarded the Star Chef of India National Award in 2018 and Young Chef of the Year Western India Culinary Association in 2024.
The dishes have certain tweaks, giving the example of Baigan ka bharta. “Typically, it is prepared with onions, tomato and lots of masala. In my Khandeshi community we do it differently. It is made of four simple ingredients: spring onions, peanuts, garlic and green chilli. All the ingredients are roasted to give a smoky flavour, Patel explains.
Thalipeeth and Red quinoa avocado salad
We eye the nalli nihari ramen (Rs 900), the stock-based breakfast item that originated in Old Delhi that has been paired with the broth dish of Japan. Our sure shot doubts of the dish coming together on the palate are laid to rest. The nihari is spicy and well simmered in saffron and spices. The lamb shank is succulent and the ramen noodles have soaked the chilli oil well. Complete with a creamy egg, seaweed, daikon, edamame and togarashi spice, we experience a good nihari in a ramen form.
Red quinoa avocado adds freshness to the palate with kale, crunchy asparagus, olives and a feta crumble (Rs 1,200). We take a rustic highway with bhajani thalipeeth khamang kakdi (Rs 1,300). The thepla-consistency thalipeeth with dollops of white butter makes it a filling Maharashtrian treat. The cucumber salad has mayo instead of yogurt, which disrupts the traditional taste.
A serving of orange kharvas and A bowl of nalli nihari ramen
We continue the sojourn with Khandeshi baigan bharta (Rs 1,200). It’s everything that bharta is usually not. The peanut oil from the nuts smoothens the bharta texture and after the spicy ramen, the homestyle, non-spicy version soothes our palate. We scoop it with piping hot puri bites. A post-lunch siesta nap is definitely on the cards. A turn along the coast for Malvani fish curry (R1,800) is worth the stop. The pomfret is soaked in a rustic tomato and coconut curry.
A winding staircase and chandelier paired with modern seating add to the decor
For dessert, we try orange kharvas (R800). We tried our first kharvas made of steamed colostrum milk at Shree Dutta Snacks on the way to Lonavala. The touch of orange citrus flavoured with kesar, elaichi and almonds balances out the sweetness. While our dining companion hits the stop button, we go one more round with a hand-churned ukadiche modak ice cream (R800). The menu is compact and skillfully executed for the discerning traveller.
AT The Brasserie, Hilton Mumbai International Airport, Andheri East.
TIME 6.30 am till 1 am
CALL 61990000
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